Having chosen what style of corset I want to make from my research, it’s time to make the pattern. I started by making a corset block to my measurements.Then I altered the block to make a pattern similar to the 1890s corsets. P.S. I know I’m cheating in terms of how you put the gussets in, but I wanted to see if this method would work.
I then made a toile out of calico. I stitched the front together where there will be a busk, and put in about half the bones. Don’t mind the wrinkles, it’s just because one layer of calico isn’t very stiff and there aren’t enough bones. And please excuse the dodgy photography, my arms are only so long.
I then made these alterations to the pattern:
- I took out 2cm from each side seam at the bust and smoothed out that line
- I lengthened by 3cm at the hem all around
- I rearranged the bust gussets to bring them further forward, I also made them a bit smaller
- I moved one of the bones from the middle of the gussets to the outside
- I angled the bones toward the centre front at the waist
- I added another bone to the centre back collection
- I moved the hip gusset over and made it a bit smaller
- I added another bone above the hip gusset for a bit more support at the back