So it’s been a long time since I’ve posted anything! Between holidays, house hunting, moving out, moving in, and then having no internet I haven’t really had the time to get as much sewing or blogging done as I’d have liked. In classic Phoebe Roberts fashion I have several unfinished personal projects on the go at the moment including an elizabethan hat, a shirt for my dad, and the 19th Century Corset. So here’s a post about a project from 1st year where we had to design and make a hat to tide you over.
We were given different categories, ways of approaching design, that we had to explore. For example natural forms, reversal of meaning, style fusion etc. The hat I chose to make was a fusion of an Ancient Egyptian headdress and a Bauhaus painting.
After making a mock up of the Egyptian hat from the pattern in From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking by Denise Dreher, an amazing book now out of print and therefore expensive to get hold of, I wish I could own a copy. I then made the pattern for my hat using the flat pattern cutting ‘slash and spread’ method. I made a mock up out of card to test the the size and shape on my head, adding extra to the width so that once covered in fabric it would still fit. At this point I did not make the pattern for the tip.
I then cut my hat pieces in brown buckram, and then two layers of heavy weight fusible interfacing. For my top fabric I wanted something soft to stitch into, wool was too expensive so I ended up buying a fabric used for lining curtains. While the rest of my hat was cut in two pieces (due to buckram width constraints), I cut the top fabric in one, placing the seam where I knew it would be covered by decoration.
When I had my hat wired and covered, I could decide on the final placing of my coloured rectangles. Originally they were all going to be fabric, but in the end the majority ended up being stitch. I was heavily influenced by these images I found on Pinterest.
I sampled on some scraps of buckram and fabric before working on my hat.
Once the decoration was finished it was time for the tip. I made the pattern simply by placing paper on the top of my hat and drawing the shape. I lined the pieces separately with white cotton, and then slip stitched the two together. Ta da!
And here’s some close ups.
Possible Improvements: I would make the darts at the back bigger so that it sits more closely to the head at the back.